Bienvenue to the first edition of les amis series. Paris, after all, is a moveable feast and the more guests the merrier, as far as I’m concerned. I hope you enjoy reading about what makes Paris always a good idea for different people. It really confirms that within such a petite geography, there are so many lives lived—within, on top of, and around each other. And, as Napoleon once said, secrets travel fast in Paris.
I’ve decided to kick off this nouveau format with recs from Madison Lucas, an Australian expat who has been living in Paris for 5 years now and currently works at the OECD. Madison is one of those special persons who has an impeccable taste for joy and fun—she finds it within every situation, within every person and then shares it with everyone. Which is why I wanted her as la première invitée!
Un peu de ménage… to sustain this newsletter and open up the magic of Paris to as many people as possible, I’ve turned on the option for paid subscriptions. This newsletter is a pure labor of love and continues to agrandir beyond my wildest dreams. If it interests you, please consider signing up with a monthly or yearly subscription! Alternatively, my Buy Me a Coffee page remains open for one-off donations. Merci to everyone who has supported me thus far—vive la France!
Madison: Paris is the best city to return to. I am always preaching that to really appreciate Paris you must get away as much as possible. Paris has a special charm when you return after a holiday. The joy of escaping the big smoke for a weekend away or perhaps 2 months gallivanting across the Mediterranean…each to their own…. is always topped off by the magic of coming back to Paris with fresh and adoring eyes. As many people are returning to Paris after the Christmas break, I am happy to share a few of my favourite ways to soak up the post- rentrée glow.
1. An afternoon spent at Le Baron Rouge
I thought I would just hit the road running and admit that my favourite Paris weekend activity is spending the day strolling around (being a cliché flâneur), sitting for one drink on a Saturday afternoon at a terrace, and often getting stuck there for hours. Our record is once spending 14 hours straight at Le Progrès. I love running into and having different friends pass by throughout the afternoon, which can occasionally turn into an evening. Some of my most treasured Paris memories have been spent like this, and we have many a hilarious story to share.
When selecting the perfect location for such an afternoon, there are a few spots that spring to mind—Le Progrès, Martin, Le Barav, Café du Coin, Bar Principal (or anywhere on Square Gardette)—but a winter classic I must recommend is Le Baron Rouge right by Marche D’Aligre. This authentic wine bar in the 12eme arrondissement has a unique charm—with an eclectic mix of locals that frequent every week and a very affordable wine selection, it’s hard to beat. In the colder months they serve oysters on the weekends (you should only eat oysters in France in the months that end in ‘re’ e.g. Novembre, Decembre)! Thinking of weekends spent with friends sprawling out on the streets at Le Baron Rouge, scoffing down oysters and drinking 1L bottles of Sancerre encapsulates why I love Paris so much. Last drinks are served at 4 pm on a Sunday and oysters run out fast so arrive early to avoid disappointment.
If you are struggling with the Paris winter (especially now as outdoor heaters have been banned) and are searching for the perfect cold weather Parisian activity, I have an unlikely suggestion for the Grande Mosque Hammam. Underneath the Grand Mosque of Paris (Grande Mosquée de Paris), hidden behind an unassuming side door located next to the patisserie stand, is an underground female-only hammam. The atmosphere is unique: as you move through the different rooms and baths, you’ll find a mix of women from all different walks of life—relaxing, scrubbing, and detoxing whatever it may be from their outside life. You really feel like you are entering another world as you pass through the underground labyrinth.
I am obsessed with baths and I don’t have one in my Parisian apartment so an afternoon spent at the Hammam is a dream for me. The entry is 30€, bring a scrub, any soaps, and a friend as it’s the perfect place to catch up for a (rare in Paris) alcohol-free activity! I have enjoyed many cherished conversations in the different rooms of this magical place. And yes, it was featured in Emily in Paris… but it was filmed in a different hammam in the 9eme arrondissement. I also recommend exploring the beautiful gardens of the Mosque, having tea at the Mosque Café after, and strolling back home through the Jardin des Plantes.
The best dumplings in Paris. I mean do I really need to say more? If you, or perhaps your wallet, need a break from the Parisian restaurant circuit, look no further than Ravioli Nord-Est. I have often claimed I could eat 100 in one sitting but am yet to get past 40. There is still time! My favourite location is close to my house in Belleville, a great option for a cheap and cheerful dinner before a night out in the area (bars I love close by are L’Orillon, Liquiderie Bar, Billards M8 & Aux Folies). The atmosphere really reminds me of my university years in Australia where BYO dumplings or Chinese noodle soup was a pre-night-out staple.
I also frequent the location in the 2eme arrondissement after a day of shopping or for the perfect snack after a visit to the Bourse de Commerce - Pinault Collection. They have an impressive vegan selection which is rare for Paris and, at 7€ for 10 dumplings, they are my Deliveroo go-to. Food and restaurants make up such a big part of Paris for me and I often encourage my friends who are visiting to not just stick to classic French bistros or trendy natural wine gastronomique restaurants (although, love!) as Paris has food from all over the world that is so delicious. This is just one of many great examples.
There are so many beautiful places to walk around and explore in Paris, but since moving to the 19eme arrondissement in 2022 I am a die-hard Buttes-Chaumont fan. It is the perfect location for a morning run, a summer picnic or just a charming place to read your book. There is almost a fairy-tale-like magic to the park—although one of my friends once told me she thought it was haunted… and with some research, I found out that the location does have a dark past… but I will leave that for you to find out on your own. On a sunny winter’s day, if you can find time during the week, take a walk around the park—it is really special and a calm oasis in an otherwise hectic city. Unlike the many jardins in Paris, you feel like you are in an actual PARK and importantly you can sit on the grass. There are a few bars and cafés throughout the park that are worth checking out, such as Pavilion Puebla and Rosa Bonheur (on a sunny Sunday Rosa Bonheur is one of the biggest queer hotspots!).
5. Rue du Nil
I can never decide which street in Paris is my all-time fave. There are so many contenders (Rue Dupetit-Thourars, Rue de Lancry, Square Gardette, Place Sainte Marthe), but if I ever want to cheer myself up or reignite the spark in Paris, nothing beats Rue du Nil. Tucked away in the busy Sentier neighbourhood, this street is ridiculously charming. The small cobblestone street makes you feel like you are in a movie. And that you are maybe even the main character!!!
When I lived around the corner, I loved doing my grocery shopping here, taking the time to go to each different store and buy my veggies, cheese, seafood. One of my favourite parts of French culture is the ability to make small moments and daily routines charming—and taking the extra time to do your shopping on a romantic street like Rue du Nil is the perfect example. My favourite stop was always the boulangerie, with the yellow façade, and in my opinion some of the best croissants in Paris! Frenchie bar à vins is always nice for a glass of wine, but do not miss stopping to have a hot chocolate at PLAQ Chocolat. This chocolate store is out of this world and the thick hot choccies on a winter’s day are an amazing, indulgent treat that you deserve when the temperature drops below 5°C.
Merci beaucoup Madison for the recs! A la prochaine!