Bonjour, ça va ?
I don’t usually write this regularly but given the ‘heat apocalypse’ that’s roasting Paris alive, I thought I’d write a special emergency issue with a few handy tips as it, unfortunately, seems to coincide with the return of so many tourists to Paris.
I will point out that July is always the hottest month in Paris and there’s usually a heatwave around this time of year. Never forget the 2003 heatwave, which was the hottest summer on record since 1540, when some 15 000 people died in France. What is abnormal is that this is the second canicule of the year (following a first in June) and that there is no end in sight—and this, most certainly, is aggravated by climate change. On Tuesday, Parisians are bracing themselves for temperatures that are tipped to reach 41°C.
I’ve read that this current heatwave is caused by a heat dome encapsulating Western Europe and affecting mainly Spain, Portugal (where temperatures have reached 47°C!), France, and the UK. The heat dome was brought on by an anticyclone that stops air masses from circulating—imagine that Europe is basically stuck in a pressure cooker right now. As I write this, the southwest of France is engulfed in wildfires and thousands of people are being evacuated.
Now if you’re like myself and hail from a sunburnt country you may think that you’re prepped for this kind of heat. But let me tell you, a Parisian summer will test your limits.
In Australia, we’re always taught to slip, slop, slap, and stay out of the sun between 11 am-2 pm, but in Paris, the mercury really starts to rise from 2 pm onwards. Temperatures tend to peak around 6-7 pm. The problem with Paris, as I’ve mentioned before, is that it’s a landlocked craterous basin which means you can’t expect a cool Southerly to breeze through and ease the nights. The heat packs up and up and continues day after day.
The other major problem with Paris is that there is very little air conditioning. I would not assume your hotel or any restaurant will have air conditioning—call ahead and check. If you’re staying in an Air Bnb, then the chances of there being AC are slim to none, désolée. The ancient buildings were simply not designed to accommodate modern cooling systems. Their light-coloured facades also mean that the sun is reflected and refracted across the narrow streets—the heat is pale and unlovely and the last place you want to be is outdoors.
So what does one do then in Paris during July? Your best bet is to take shelter in a museum as they are required to be air-conditioned in order to conserve the art. I wrote a newsletter recently on lesser-known museums in Paris but there are some stellar exhibitions currently on show that I also recommend:
Mirdidingkingathi Juwarnda Sally Gabori at Fondation Cartier: the first major international exhibition, outside of Australia, of Aboriginal artist Sally Gabori. It’s beautiful and it couldn’t be a more appropriate setting. There’s a wild, overgrown (shaded!) garden surrounding the building where you can stop for a refreshing bev after the show. Keep an eye out for Agnes Varda’s cabin tucked between the bushes, where you can sit and watch her short film “Le Tombeau de ZgouZgou” in the (cool) dark.
Bourse de Commerce: the new Pinault collection that opened just last year. There’s currently a great exhibition A Second Eternity featuring works by artists such as Philippe Pareno, Felix Gonzalez-Torres, Roni Horn, and Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster who each explore the concept of space-time. And there’s free water available on the top floor!
Simon Hantaï at Fondation Louis Vuitton: It’s a bit of a trek out to Fondation Louis Vuitton but it’s the perfect excursion for a hot day as it’s located in the Bois de Boulogne. Post-exhibition, find relief in nature and cool off on the banks of the great lakes hidden in the heart of the forest and shaded by trees.
Otherwise, I’d recommend hiding in Le Bon Marché and the recently opened La Samaritaine for some retail therapy. You don’t want to be traipsing from shop to shop in this heat, so your best bet is a department store. I personally find Le Bon Marché (and its food hall La Grande Épicerie) one of the most soothing places in Paris because everything is so neat and orderly (and air-conditioned.)
Back in 2019, I thought it was smart to celebrate the hottest day in Parisian history (42.6°C) by drinking a bottle of rosé to myself. I was then sick for two days straight so I am not going to endorse drinking alcohol in this heat but if you must, then forget everything I previously told you, and feel free to add ice cubes to your vin à la piscine.
Paris has some of the highest quality tap water in the world so don’t waste your money on bottled water. Order a carafe d’eau at restaurants and keep a reusable bottle in tow as there are THOUSANDS of public water fountains across the city. Only drink sparkling water? Well, you’re in luck because there are also several carbonated public fountains. One legend made a map of every fountain that you can add to your Google Maps so that you’ll never go thirsty.
Unfortunately, as I’ve noted before, there are no ‘cool’ outdoor pools in Paris where you can take a refreshing dip. You’re going to have to don a swimming cap and brave the local piscines if you’re desperate for a swim (though many are closed for renovation right now as it’s the school holidays so do call in advance to check they are open).
Finally, there’s no better summer treat than a glace but I will warn you that you’re probably not the only person who thought of cooling down with an ice cream and the queues can be horrendously long. Folderol is still my number one pick for une glace in Paris but other favourites are:
Berthillon: the most famous ice cream parlour in the land. The original shopfront is located on the Ile Saint Louis but the queues can snake across the island. Hot tip: several cafés and other shop fronts also sell Berthillon ice cream on Ile-Saint-Louis so skip the queue and head to one of those.
Une Glace à Paris: Recently named the best ice cream makers in France, Une Glace à Paris is famous for its seasonal exotic flavors like green apple and buckwheat, or blackberry, mint, and cinnamon.
Glace Bachir: Lebanese ice cream! Order the specialty, Achta, with crushed pistachios!
Ok, that’s enough from me. If you’re reading this from Paris, bon courage! And if you’re travelling to Paris, stay cool svp!
A la prochaine !
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