Bonjour, ça va ?
Bonjour, ça va ?
I think the New York Times Paris correspondent Roger Cohen phrased it correctly in that in Paris “the pandemic has, in some ways, imposed conditions of war in time of peace.” There’s something almost Waiting for Godot-esque about the current condition: we are all waiting for the invisible savior to end the pandemic (the vaccine?), waiting for—what seems like—perpetuity for the restrictions on everyday living to lift… and then there is the supreme wait for ‘life to return to normal’ which threatens to push us all to an existential crisis—what even was ‘normal’? Is this the ‘new normal’? But alas, we are still here, waiting.
To add to the tragicomedy, the nationwide 6pm curfew has completely screwed my notion of time: I have the sense it is both abundant and fleeting. With most amenities closed, there is very little to break up the monotony of daily routine and as a result the days feel insufferably long. Yet, at the same time, the curfew has instilled within me this chronic feeling of being rushed—which heightens as the clock nears 6pm.
In a Jane Austen-like manner, my boyfriend and I have ritualized an evening ‘turn about the block,’ a final taste of freedom and fresh air before we are confined to our apartment. If we’re feeling a little wild, we may even stay out a few minutes past curfew—a tepid act of rebellion to remind ourselves we are still young and (somewhat) fun.
Our evening jaunt usually includes a stop at the local supermarché to peruse the shelves (I promise in non-pandemic times we have normal hobbies and interests). And so recently we’ve decided to make these trips a little educational so I can learn once and for all:
How to buy a decent bottle of wine from the supermarket.
Before I go any further, I urge you 99% of the time to visit your local caviste for all your alcoholic needs (especially in these COVID times—support local!).
But let’s be honest, there is still that 1% of the time when we are already at the supermarket and time doesn’t permit us to make an extra stop at the bottle shop (curfew!), there isn’t a cave open nearby (think Sundays or Mondays), or pockets are tight. Personally, I would much rather scurry anonymously in and out of a supermarket when I only have 6€ to spend on wine than potentially subject myself to humiliation before a snobbish caviste as I sheepishly ask for the cheapest yet still drinkable bottle they have.
I am quite lucky in the wine department as my boyfriend is a sommelier so I rarely have to pick out a bottle of wine myself. But for those of you who don’t have a live-in sommelier, sifting through the hundreds of non-descript options at the supermarket can really make you mal à la tête (and I’m not even referring to the hangover that might come lest you make a bad choice). What’s more is that the French seem to be born with a reasonable palette which will make it all the more embarrassing when you turn up at an aperitif with a bottle of lighter fluid disguised as wine—you won’t be fooling anyone.
So to save you from both a nasty hangover and humiliation, I asked my Live-in Sommelier to share a few basic pointers on how to pick a decent bottle:
The best bang for your buck can be found in the 8-12€ range. Don’t venture below the 6€ mark.
Steer clear of the bottom shelf—you’re never going to find anything worthwhile unless you need wine for cooking or making sangria.
Don’t be fooled by bottles covered in shiny medallion stickers: this is a marketing gimmick designed to catch the consumer’s attention. The wines that actually win the most important competitions will not be sold at supermarkets. Also, you can never be sure what the accolades signify… the winemaker could have invented the competition themselves or they may have been the only competitor.
The best supermarket to buy wine from is the British chain Marks & Spencer’s. Their buyer must be WSET Level 3 certified which equates to an educated selection.
Try wines from regions like the Loire Valley or Languedoc-Roussillon rather than risking cheap options from notoriously cher regions like Bordeaux, Burgundy, or Champagne.
And finally… look out for this little guy on the neck of the bottle to choose a wine from an independent producer rather than an industrial monster.
Then I decided to put my Live-in Sommelier’s sommelier-ing skills to the test and had him advise on how to choose a bottle for a few different real-life scenarios:
I’ve been asked to bring a bottle of white and red to a dinner party. I have no idea what they are cooking or what their personal preferences are. Help!
Your best bet is an all-rounder white: think pinot grigio, gewürztraminer, or chenin blanc grape varieties. A wine from the Jura/Savoie region will be the best value for your money.
For a classic dinner party red, expect to spend at least 10€ and look to Beaujolais (but not a super cheap one which risks being too sweet and fruity), Loire Valley, or even a grenache from the Rhône Valley.
I’m already dreaming of summer 2021 when COVID is (hopefully) done and I’ll be able to kick back and relax by the Seine with a bottle of rosé. With what should I quench my thirst?
I, Madeleine, was always of the belief that rosé was the low-frills fuel of cheap fun-in-the-sun—quantity over quality was the name of the game. According to Live-in Sommelier, I couldn’t have been more wrong: rosé is very technical and expensive to make so it’s difficult to find something of good quality at a low price. You’re going to have to splash out if you want something more than rose-tinted lighter fluid. Brangelina’s Miraval (Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt’s non-human child) is always a safe bet and can be found at most supermarkets (around the world!).
Money is not an issue for me so fais-moi plaisir: what’s the best bottle of wine I can find at the supermarché?
Careful big spender—here’s where you need to faire attention. From time to time, you can find extraordinary wines at reasonable prices at the supermarket but chances are they have not been stored properly (i.e. they will be corked). We found a 2009 Dom Perignon at Monoprix for only €155 (a steal) but it was hidden on the top shelf, bathing in an offensive fluorescent light—not worth the risk. You’re better of opting for a 20-25€ of Bordeaux that bears the indication “mise en bouteille au chateau”—bottled at the chateau where the grapes were grown.
I want bubbles!
Don’t we all? But if you want champagne, be prepared to pay at least 22€ for something decent. Too cher for your budget? Look for a crémant, a sparkling wine variation from the Burgundy, Alsace or Loire regions and usually priced between 10-16€.
I only drink natural wine :/
Have no fear you sulfite snob, minimal intervention wines can now be found at most local supermarkets. Monoprix even have their own range of sans sulfite wines (red, white, pet nat) that are all conveniently the same price: 8.90€.
So with a potential third confinement on the horizon, there is no time like the present to get to know the offerings at your local supermarché.
(Or, even better, plan in advance and stock up from your local cave!)
Oh, and one last insider’s tip… if you find yourself after 6pm with nothing to quench your thirst, there is a handy app called KOL that delivers a decent selection of wine at reasonable prices in 28 min or less (but only until 10pm).
Bonne dégustation, always drink responsibly, et à la semaine prochaine !